Name/Label: Crane Lake
Type/Varietal: Petite Syrah
Source/Appellation: "California" (on the reverse it indicates "Napa and Sonoma")
Year: 2005
Price Paid: USD$5
Purchase Location: Westminster, CO
Rating: 3/5
Notes:
After Cherie shot down my idea of making takoyaki for dinner and instead suggested something "lighter," I suddenly got the inspiration for a technically lighter dinner with pasta and olive oil. After a trip to Whole Foods where I found very nice looking watercress (which found its way into soup), some gorgeous fresh white anchovies, and some oil cured olives, I knew what I must do. I ran over to Total Beverage on 120th in search of a really nice, inexpensive gamay. And came up empty. They had a "Beaujolais" section which did not include any beaujolais, just stuff from surrounding regions all marked for $20-$30. Beaune is good, mind you, but not $30 good. Instead I just contented myself with wandering and looking for lighter wines that were in the free to $10 range. My eyes came across the Crane Lake, with ugly generic label (worse than the Pine Ridge label, ugh, it looked like some awful wedding invitation) and $5 price tag ($4 if you're in their club) and dwelled slightly.
"This wine is 5 dollars," I thought to myself. "I bet it's awful." "But on the other hand," my mind continued, "since it's only 5 dollars, if it's awful, I won't really have lost much in the gamble." So I grabbed a bottle. The only thing I wanted the wine for was a salad dressing anyway, so it didn't have to be fantastic. In fact, if it was more acidic, it would probably be better for making a "vinaigrette" anyway, so the only way I'd lose that bet is if it was just plain downright abominable, which $5 wine can tend to be.
Now, some of you may be aware of the (in)famous Charles Shaw label, sold for $2 (in California) and $3 (most other places) at Trader Joe's. Often referred to as "two buck chuck," many people, including my sister, swear by it. I gave it a shot, I tried I believe their syrah, and it was hideous! The flavor was... decent, as far as bad wine goes (I remember the $30 bottle of "Inferi" Montepulciano which was possibly the biggest waste of money I ever made), but there was something... about... the Charles Shaw that just rubbed me the wrong way. The hangover that lasted 2 days after drinking it really drove that point home. I can say without hesitation that this Crane Lake is 2 dollars more than Charles Shaw and much, much better. It's also better than everybody's OTHER favorite $5 wine, the Rex Goliath 47 Pound Rooster, which nevertheless still wins in the "humor" category.
Crane Lake really isn't all that bad. I can say one thing, when I started drinking I already had a slight headache from allergies, and my head actually feels BETTER after having a couple glasses. Whether I get a hangover from this is yet to be seen, but really it doesn't *seem* like that sort of wine. It doesn't have that... filthy... feeling that Charles Shaw gave me. AND REMEMBER, I drank the Charles Shaw before realizing what exactly it was-- my sister pulled a fast one on me, which is actually pretty easy. She wanted to prove that cheap wine could be alright. And she did. It was alright. I'd rather drink that than, say, Concha y Toro. And I'd rather get it sprayed into my asshole at high velocities than drink Barefoot.
On the nose of the Crane Lake you get a very distinct alcohol note. That is, in fact, the predominant tone of the bouquet. It isn't really so much of a bouquet as it is a hospital room. Underneath the strong alcohol there is a little bit of fruit, mostly cherry preserves, underripe pear, and a little bit of brandy and maduro cigar. Drink this in a close-mouthed glass, like a Sangiovese glass, not a larger bowl one like you would for cabernet, by the way. Trying to drink this out of a balloon glass like for pinot noir would be the recipe for disaster. Much like with brandy or other hard alcohols, dwelling too much on the nose would be unfortunate. Petite Syrah is SUPPOSED to be a more delicate nose anyway, so you're not really spending a lot of time there like you do on well-aged musky bordeaux or really excellent merlot, which can be candy-sweet.
Yes, this one is designed to go into your mouth and be swallowed shortly thereafter. On the tongue, it is a very tannic wine. Especially shortly after opened, it has a very distinct bitter "green" taste to it. You know that really sharp acidity and vegetable taste when you bite into underripe grapes? There you go. But fortunately after a few hours of being opened (you could easily decant this one and have it ready sooner), the acids relax a little bit, and it never has the misfortune of being too "tight," like younger Clarets can tend to be. It's fine out of the bottle, but improves with gentle oxidation. Predominant flavors are leather, tobacco, currant, raspberry, and a bit of shoe polish. I mean, what you'd imagine shoe polish to taste like, I don't touch the stuff myself. It does, I must say, have a very pleasant, lingering aftertaste of blackberries, which I very heartily approve of. It makes me wish I had a forest fruit tart.
I served the wine with a pasta dish I came up with with oil-cured black olives, picholine olives, anchovies, garlic, fennel, shallot, sun-dried tomato, two italian hard cheeses, and olive oil. The wine went actually extraordinarily well, cutting through the strong flavors and bitter undertones with its own bitterness, not overpowering but adding to. I also added it to a "vinaigrette" for salads with small slivers of anjou pear, fresh grown tomato, and the same two cheeses. I found it most satisfying.
Overall I'd rate this more than adequate for the imbiber on a budget, and I will probably try their other varietals at some point just because of how outrageously inexpensive it is. I wouldn't serve this to a guest without forewarning, however, as you can taste its cheapness, and paired with the wrong dinner it could have dire consequences on your social life. For instance, I would not even serve it with mushrooms, as they are much too sweet. The intensely bitter oil-cured olives were probably what brought the dish together. The Crane Lake, despite being tacky, cheap, and unsophisticated, was nevertheless leagues better than a lot of the swill that undoubtedly sells much better on the American wine market, and is an unexpected surprise to the wine drinker on a budget.